Temperate Thoughts

Here it is the first day of November and I’ve blogged nary a word the past month. It’s not that the mind has been a total blank, completely devoid of thoughts or dreams or inspirations. It’s mostly that I’ve been busy enjoying autumn. Yes, I am a lover of fall. The fragrances, the sunsets, the change in the clarity of the atmosphere, the brilliant gold leaves clinging to the damp-dark branches of a tree against a steely, cloud-strewn sky, and the blissful end to sultry summer.

By all local accounts this past summer in Alexandria was “mild”. Having moved from Rhode Island in mid-June (where I was still cranking up the thermostat at night) I found the quick change to an Alexandrian summer stultifying. However, here I am at the other end (i.e.; autumn) and I am happy as could be. I’ve got open windows day and night, when it’s not too chilly, and I’m enjoying the crisp air and blue, blue skies by day. I’ve even got a monster coleus in a terracotta pot still sitting out on the patio. The only down side to autumn in my book is shorter days.

The sun is lower in the sky, temperatures drop, prevailing winds pick up, rain and/or snow are in the forecast. All of these conditions combine to produce greater need for heat and light and are accompanied by higher energy bills. Intelligent plantings can help temper the effects of weather and save energy and money.

Although my focus is more on landscaping and horticulture rather than making all sorts of green pronouncements, sometimes these subjects dovetail rather nicely and cogently. Don’t panic; I’m not going to suggest that you tear down the old homestead and install a completely new net zero structure. All that would accomplish is starting a completely new and potentially heated conversation on feng shui, sustainable historic preservation and the ramifications of new green construction; another time, perhaps after I awaken from my winter hibernation next spring and I’ve downed a few mimosas.

Right now I’m simply going to suggest that you observe the seasonal changes in your yard and how your landscape helps or hinders how you control your environment; indoor and outdoor. Yes, control, since gardening is not about nature at all, really. It’s about subjugating nature to one’s will (insert evil laugh here). A few questions to ponder are: How are trees or shrubs affecting the light that reaches your kitchen (where many of us spend more time in the cooler months) or other rooms that need strong winter light? Would it be prudent to remove or limb up a few deciduous/evergreen trees and replace one type with the other? Is the landscape having any kind of impact on prevailing winds (directing it toward the bathroom window, say)? Obviously, the living landscape elements that have the most impact are the largest ones, i.e.; trees, so it's smart to consider them first, then move on to a review of shrubs.

Whether you like him or sometimes find him irritatingly arrogant, Frank Lloyd Wright had some witty and useful things to say about the built environment. These two quotes come to mind:

Buildings, too, are children of Earth and Sun.

A doctor can bury his mistakes but an architect can only advise his clients to plant vines.

The right plants correctly situated can actually help you mitigate the effects of weather on your home, and as Wright suggests, divert attention from less than stellar architectural qualities. Here are some basics to consider:

An evergreen screen on the north side of the house helps block winter winds and provides refuge for wildlife all year long.

Deciduous trees or shrubs on the south side provide shade during the hottest time of year then drop their leaves to let in light when you need it most.

As for Wright’s suggestion about vines, few things are more inviting in any landscape than a vine-covered pergola, trelliswork or brise soleil. Outdoor structures like these provide shade in summer and, if covered with deciduous vines, the bare structure remains all winter providing a focal point and possibly a jolt of hot color in an otherwise chilly scene. Such permanent structures might even entice hardier souls to venture outside on a mid-winter day.

I’m not quite ready to consider winter just yet. I feel a nap coming on.

Turf Wars

A question from a reader of my Old Town Crier column appears below:

James, of Bethesda MD writes, “The grass on my lawn has always been less than perfect, but this time of year it is worse than ever. Just lightly raking or blowing leaves off it causes the grass itself to come off in clumps and expose the soil. What can I do?”

Dear James:

I am happy to provide, as promised, an attempt to respond to your question intelligently.

It’s always tricky to handle a pest identification/solution query without seeing the problem with one’s own eyes but here goes: from your description it sounds as though your lawn is suffering from a long-term siege by grubs. These wretched creatures have probably been gorging themselves all throughout the previous growing season (and probably earlier ones, too) on the roots of your grass.

As I mentioned in my October column, Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is a smart approach to take when faced with any sort of disease or pest problem. Briefly:

1. Set acceptable (and reasonable) tolerance levels.

2. Monitor and identify pests.

3. Prevention is worth a pound of cure, i.e., select the toughest plants.

4. Control is the last element of an IPM program and the last resort.

Sadly, there isn’t much to be done about grubs in November. Lower soil temperatures are encouraging the little blighters to burrow (toward dormancy and a deep, refreshing slumber from which they’ll awaken with renewed voracity) thereby making any chemical attempts to get rid of them more difficult. A better approach is also a natural and less toxic one: a one-two punch of milky spore and beneficial nematodes.

Milky spore is a disease that kills grubs. The spores are applied to the lawn which the grubs ingest when they feed on the thatch or roots of treated grass. When the grubs die and decompose they release spores back into the soil. Patience is a virtue here since it may take a season or two before you’ll see improvement.

Spraying beneficial nematodes in the early fall controls grubs. Nematodes are microscopic worms that actively search for pre-adult insects like grubs. After invading the body of the grub, the nematodes release a bacterium that infects and kills them.

Soapbox Statement of the Day

I believe that enormous, sweeping swathes of verdant green turf are a bad idea; unless you live on a golf course, a baseball diamond or anywhere in Ireland. The first two localities provide perfect turf as a requisite condition for the sport they host, while Ireland’s naturally occurring conditions make growing glorious grass a breeze. Really, most of us have no urgent need for a backyard that will accommodate lawn tennis or the USPGA Tour. That’s why we have such great public parks and golf courses.

So what’s so terrible about creating your very own flawless green carpet that is the envy of the neighborhood? From a water use perspective alone, lawns are thieving gluttons. From a chemical reduction point of view, a monoculture (growth of a single plant) typically increases the need for pest and disease control. And although it’s possible to get that gorgeous green stuff without drenching it in chemicals, some misguided souls feel compelled to use gallons of nasty goo; and that nastiness eventually gets tracked into your house via everyone’s feet and/or hands. Remember, too, that the smaller stature of pets and children (combined with their shared tendency to roll around on the ground and their notorious insistence for sticking their paws into their mouths) puts them in close proximity to treated turf.

Limiting the amount of real estate dedicated entirely to turf can be a beautiful and sustainable way to add interest and diversity to your yard — AND allow you more time to enjoy the lawn area you do have by reducing the amount of time you’ll spend mowing, watering, worrying about your water bill, etc. Consider widening (or creating) a border around lawn areas with xeriscape (low-water consumption) plants or adding some other plants into the lawn itself such as chamomile or thyme. Both these herbs will tolerate foot traffic although neither will be a match for a spirited game of Frisbee. Check out http://www.stepables.com/ for inspiration.

Water for Thought

This startling statistic is from an EPA publication called Outdoor Water Use in the United States that you can view here: www.epa.gov/watersense/pubs/outdoor.htm

An American family of four can use 400 gallons of water per day, and about 30 percent of that is devoted to outdoor uses. More than half of that outdoor water is used for watering lawns and gardens. Nationwide, landscape irrigation is estimated to account for almost one-third of all residential water use, totaling more than 7 billion gallons per day.

YOICKS! If those numbers don't inspire you to reduce your home turf, I suggest you consider relocation to the Emerald Isle.

Gentle readers may submit questions and I will do my best to answer them intelligently.

Jacqueline Murphy, the proprietor of Garden Calls, garden guru service, offers “horticultural therapy”, garden design and staging expertise for residential landscapes with a focus on intelligent, sustainable design. A Smith College graduate, horticulturist and writer, Jacqueline has written for Fine Gardening magazine and books published by Reader’s Digest and Time Life. The garden guru is in and may be reached here: Garden.Calls@yahoo.com

Carpe diem! But drop that fruit!

One of my earliest horticultural memories is of the towering yew that stood before our front door on Polk Avenue in East Northport, NY. It seemed towering to me anyway — and definitely loud. Birds flocked there to perch, nest and chirp madly amongst its dark, thick branches and feast on the juicy red fruit. It was those marvelous berries (technically arils, just like what you see inside a pomegranate) that seemed to glow from within that really captured my imagination. I have always possessed a keen eye for potential food items and those berries looked mighty tasty. I figured if the birds enjoyed them I probably would, too.

It was around this time of year many years ago that my mom and I were walking up to our front door. The yew loomed large and the berries glowed enticingly; they had reached peak ripeness and the birds were going hog wild. Naturally I wanted a sample, but just as quickly as I thrust my greedy little paw into the shrubbery my mother shouted “NO” and covered my fist with her hand thereby squashing the one berry I'd mangaged to seize. The slimey goo that remained in my palm before its thorough washing was nothing like I'd imagined it would be.

Unbeknownst to me at that time, but clearly understood by Mom, the toxicity of the yew seed, as well as the foliage and bark, eliminates it from human, equine and bovine menus. Interestingly and importantly for successful seed dispersal, birds digest the pretty fruit and pass the completely viable seed in their droppings later.

Some four decades later I can’t be sure but I’m guessing that yew was a Taxus x media ‘Hicksii’, a cultivar bred on Long Island at the famous Hicks Nurseries, that is still a popular if overused shrub. (Who else remembers the giant witch that stood guard over the Hicks parking lot and all those pumpkins every autumn? I loved her.)

If you enjoy bird watching as much as I do, and you missed the recent wild bird presentation at the South Dakota State Fair, here are some bird-attracting fruit-bearing plants:

Bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica)
Beautyberry (Callicarpa bodinieri)
Holly, all kinds (Ilex spp.)
Huckleberry (Vaccinium ovatum)
Oregon grape holly (Mahonia aquifolium)
Yew (Taxus spp.)

I was unable to attend myself so I don’t know if Dave mentioned any of these plants but there are so many more to consider. This site is great for all sorts of birding information: http://www.wild-bird-watching.com/. Here's the direct link to a compilation of useful books on bird gardens: http://www.wild-bird-watching.com/Bird-Garden.html.

I’m not certain but The Yew Incident may predate The First Day of Kindergarten Incident, in which I decided to accept the invitation for a future play date that very day — without asking either of our mothers first. The calm with which Mrs. Adler greeted me and posed her query was impressive. She said, “Hello, little girl. What’s your name and do you know your mommy’s phone number?” I still know our old phone number: 516-757-8564. Carpe diem indeed.

I’ve got issues

Don't we all?

Here’s a sampling of issues that I and some gentle souls of my acquaintance are currently experiencing:

• Coyote conquest imperils impending harvest at LA vineyard

• Millipede menace bashes Brooklyn bliss

And, less spectacularly, I recently had to cope with a few ant trails in the master bath.

As the weather cools down and the days shorten we move inexorably into autumn and into different rhythms of life. There are harvests to complete (and protect), gardens to clean up and put to bed, new school and work routines and many of us spend more time indoors, including (with the exception of coyotes) pests.

I am the first to admit that a glass-shattering shriek escapes me when I see pests in the house, and sometimes outdoors, too. Also, that my next atavistic reaction is the flight response. Whenever possible I command someone else to dispatch the offender with no delay. Sometimes the cat obliges me — but not without making the intruder pay dearly before the coup de grâce. In this photo the Terminator is at rest. Like Chuck Norris, Sable doesn't sleep, she waits.

Rather than blast every creepy-crawly or larger four-legged pest out of existence (as tempting as that may be at times), it’s safer and healthier for all concerned to attempt to restore balance.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is the most intelligent concept I know to deal with pests of all kinds, indoors and out, in a harmonious manner. Note that the key word here is “management” not annihilation. Like all worthy enterprises, implementing an IPM program requires some energy and thought.

See complete details here: http://www.epa.gov/opp00001/factsheets/ipm.htm

IPM, as defined by the Environmental Protection Agency, employs a four-tiered approach:

1. Set acceptable (and reasonable) tolerance levels. Although a single millipede sighting inspires me to consider a cross-country move (I see you nodding, Susan), this is usually impractical. Best to just squash the invader and drive on with one’s day. The technical term for squashing is “mechanical control”. Noting a continual presence of uninvited guests is something else again and requires the next step in the IPM approach: monitoring.

2. Monitoring and identifying pests. Some critters are actual pests and cause real damage to plants or harm to people. Some merely offend one’s aesthetic but are otherwise harmless. It’s important to know the difference so that you may take proper action — which may turn out to be inaction (also known as “sucking it up”).

3. Prevention is worth a pound of cure. Every living thing has needs and preferences for a happy existence. (Mine are dark chocolate, prosecco and Chris Isaak, not necessarily in that order, but what a splendid combination…) In an outdoor IPM setting this translates to correct plant choices and cultural practices that keep plants healthy and therefore resistant to pests and diseases. Planting drifts of hydrangea (AKA deer candy) in your deer-infested back 40 without deer fencing is asking for a sad little forest of brown twigs. Selecting a shade lover for a sunny spot is asking for more brown twigs. Indoors, this means eliminating pest-friendly conditions by employing good housekeeping practices (keep the house neat, clean and as clutter-free as possible).

4. Control is the last element of an IPM program and the last resort. If all else fails it’s time to consider the options, always starting with those that offer the lowest risk factors, including pest predators such as ladybugs, low-toxicity, targeted sprays, etc. In some cases it may be beneficial to enlist the aid of a professional.

Please keep (your shears) off the grass

Ornamental grasses — all of which I adore — are in flower now. There are many grass species ranging in effect from fluffy and cute to elegant and architectural. They can sound like the ocean when breezes stir the foliage, they make excellent privacy screens, provide shelter for wildlife and some can guzzle copious amounts of water in areas you might prefer to keep dry.

Birds love them, too, as they provide tasty treats in the form of seeds. I was reminded of this when I rushed over to admire a freshly stocked cart of Pennisetum at a local nursery and inadvertently triggered a panicked evacuation of an entire flock of sparrows.

When selecting ornamental grasses for your garden, consider their ultimate, mature spread. The larger species that have an arching, fountain-like habit require a lot of real estate. It seems obvious to figure out how much space you have and then install a suitable plant there, I know, but I am cringing as I write about the numerous ornamental grasses I have lately seen sheared to fit a tight spot. This is a go preceded by a big NO. 

 

The problem with the plantings of the fluffy, arching maiden grass (Miscanthus) in these two photos is that these plants encroach too much on the nearby walkways, which is what motivated the shearing. A more upright form would work better in these areas.

The same species planted in a wide border around a pool are much more effective, although even these are getting a bit overgrown for the space. In this case I would advise division to give them — and the people lounging — more room to breathe. These grasses can be divided like any other perennial; and free plants are always a good thing.

Ornamental grasses are great for hedging but they are not privet or boxwood so please put down the shears; at least until next year. The only appropriate time to prune ornamental grasses is at the end of winter when foliage should be cut down to four to six inches tall. Cut down the old leaves before fresh green shoots appear in spring.

The only other correct motivation for wielding the garden shears around ornamental grasses at this time of year is for flower arranging purposes.

Below is a (not a fabulous shot, alas) beautiful feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora 'Karl Foerster') I snapped with my cell phone at Green Spring Gardens.

Both the maiden grass and the feather reed grass flowers add an earthy, elegant note to a late summer bouquet.

Dog day thoughts

With less than four weeks of summer remaining my thoughts are turning to making them as enjoyable as possible. It's still hot and the biting bugs are still happily feasting on whatever flesh they can find. A quick and easy culinary cure is to swipe exposed skin with white vinegar. You can also swab down outdoor tables with same to discourage flies from attending your al fresco meals. Old-fashioned sticky flypaper and flytraps are nontoxic and therefore safe to use anwhere you choose to enjoy your food.

Another favorite food-based cure for hands (and feet) that have been gardening all summer long is a recipe I vary according to the contents of my kitchen. Massage the cut ends of fresh lemons or limes (that you might not use for anything else except possibly to freshen the garbage disposal) over any areas that need softening: feet, elbows, hands, cuticles. The juice also whitens stained nails. Of course, if you know the trick my Grandma Gargano taught me (scrape your nails over a bar of soap before you slip on your gardening gloves) you won't have that particular problem. When you're done working remove your gloves and use a nail brush to remove the soap — and the dirt it prevented from getting under your nails. If I have more time and the inclination I'll mix lemon or lime juice with a handful of salt and a tablespoon or more of olive oil for a quick and refreshing scrub.

My friend Michele and I knew how to enjoy the best my grandparents' yard had to offer back in the old dog days. I'm the one in the dark suit with the stylized flower (of course) on it.

In these shoes? I don't think so

Over time I've discovered some necessary garden accoutrements, shoes being one of the most important among them. If my tootsies are unhappy (i.e.; wet, cold, hot, etc.) I am unhappy. And so is anyone else within earshot.

Having spent a lot of time gadding about New York City in the pre-Giuliani years, my main shoe selection rule had always been "buy shoes you can run in". If they happen to be 4-inch Manolos, why not?

This is not to say that I have always made the wisest choices. The rather high-heeled but generally very comfy tumbled gold leather Kork-Ease (upper right) are a case in point. I bought them specifically to function as the foundation of my summer wardrobe and I chose to wear them on my first casual walking tour of Old Town Alexandria. Big mistake.

Anyone who has walked around Old Town is familiar with the charming — and often uneven — brick sidewalks. The slim wedge heel of the Kork-Ease, although fabulous on other surfaces, did not offer their usual showgirl-on-her-day-off combo of casual glitz and comfort. After limping along for several blocks in a most unalluring manner, I knew I needed immediate relief in the form of flat shoes or a piggyback ride. Thanks to Sam, my beau and champion, my new bronze Fit Flops have become my go-to summer sandal. (It was too hot for a piggyback ride, anyway.) The silver and gold Earth shoes (lower left) also satisfy my need for both a bit of dazzle and a flat sole.

For gardening tasks I like different shoes for different tasks. I have two pairs of waterproof Clark's (lower right), one ankle-high boot and one oxford style, that resemble L.L. Bean's duck boots, that I wear for really sloppy, wet conditions. In colder weather I install a sheepskin liner made by Uggs.

For summer gardening I like my Ahnu water shoes (upper left), which were also purchased in a moment of desperate need on Block Island last summer. I'm now the proud owner of two pairs. My shoe collection multiplies purely out of necessity. Really.

Size Matters (or Think Big)

After a very quick tour of Green Spring Gardens this morning, curtailed by the air quality advisory and the fact that I forgot to swallow a Claritin, I’ve decided to address the question of size and scale in the landscape from the air-conditioned comfort of home. If you haven’t visited this public park in Alexandria do so on a non-orange alert day or any time you need a little inspiration. The park is beautifully landscaped and the horticultural center offers a reference library, all kinds of events and classes and several shops.

The great thing about visiting an established (or historic) landscape is seeing mature specimens in all their glory. It can be difficult for the new home gardener to make the visual leap from a potted sapling at the garden center to a 30- or even 15-foot tree.

The photo of this big old house in Old Town has some great examples of scale; the full-size SUV parked in front of the Mini and the large (mature) tree on the left with all the smaller (and much newer) trees on the right. Notice how the large tree balances the mass of the front part of this mansard roof house and shades the backyard. The smaller specimens planted closer to the house focus the eye closer to the ground and provide a pedestrian-friendly view.

When I worked in a nursery designing landscapes, mostly for new or non-gardeners, the most challenging element of my task was helping people see the possibilities; especially with regard to scale. Simply put: size matters — especially in the larger context of the built environment. The miniature orchid that rocks the galley kitchen from its windowsill stage will most likely disappear on the front porch where it will be obliterated by the scale of its surroundings.

My favorite, and most effective, technique to help people visualize size and scale in the garden is to pose as a plant. Sounds ridiculous, I know, but there’s no need to cover anyone with compost or leaves. Just place a volunteer in the planting spot you’re considering and stand back to assess the impact. And take a photo, it lasts longer and will help you long after your volunteer has run off for well-earned libations. Raised or outstretched arms easily add height and width. This is particularly useful when trying to determine the proper placement and height to create an effective screen. If you’d rather skip the posing, pick up this great book entitled The Plant Growth Planner, by Caroline Boisset, that shows plants at one, three, six and twelve years old.

When you’re considering woody specimens (trees and shrubs), size is even more important given the longer time frame for them to reach maturity compared to herbaceous plants. If you need to buy several trees, and you’re not installing a perfectly symmetrical allée, I advise buying one of the largest specimens you can afford (up to about 10 feet in height since anything taller can be tricky to establish) and several smaller specimens in different heights. This keeps the price more manageable and you’ll get a yard that looks less like a newly started tree farm and more like an established landscape.

Even a container garden needs to have the proper stature in order to succeed. There’s something terribly depressing about a large pot with a few scraggly specimens poking up through the exposed soil. Think big — especially for your annual displays. Larger annuals and perennials obviously cost more (and the price of woody plants rises exponentially with regard to size) but you’ll buy fewer to fill up a pot and the effect is so worth it.

The expertly designed and well-tended pots at Yates Sunoco in Del Ray are planted with a mix of coleus, New Guinea impatiens and sweet potato vine for a perfectly lush, bold and exotic effect.

I was reminded once again of the drama and impact that proper scale creates when I walked under the fragrant shadow of a 4-foot rosemary standing tall in a small raised bed in Old Town. Now that’s what I’m talking about!

Garden Calls is open for business

Now that I'm living in a place where the winters do not entail six months of snow cover (Alexandria, VA to be exact), I've decided to get back to doing what I love: bossing people around in their own backyards.

Seriously, one of my favorite jobs was working as a landscape designer/supervisor for Nabel's Nurseries, a high-end nursery and landscape design/build outfit in Westchester NY, where I did get to issue commands to the wonderful landscape crews and dole out horticultural advice to clients.

My goal is to guide garden lovers in creating fabulous outdoor spaces using intelligent design strategies, sustainable garden practices and a discerning eye.

In this blog, I plan to share my horticultural and design tips based on my 20+ years of training and expertise. My training started at my grandpa's Kings Park NY vegetable garden. Grandpa Gargano, like all good Italian-American men, kept everyone in tomatos, squash and basil. I got to do the weeding and bug picking, not exactly glamourous jobs, but essential ones.

From then on, I was pretty much hooked on horticulture. Not so much on bug picking.


Feel free to send me questions and I'll see what I can do to help.